St Margaret’s Well
The Church of St Margaret of Antioch at Binsey dates from the twelfth century. Standing on the site of one of the original monasteries of St Frideswide (the patron saint of Oxford), it is a remote, peaceful church, reached by a narrow road, making it an oasis of calm. I parked on the side of the road, just outside the church wall.
Although its location gives it the name of Saint Margaret's Well, the well itself was actually dedicated to Saint Frideswide. In the seventh century, Frideswide escaped to Binsey to avoid marrying the Mercian prince, Algar. Whilst searching for her, Algar was struck by lightning and blinded. Frideswide prayed to God and her prayers brought forth a spring, whose waters had healing powers and cured the prince's eyes.
The site became an important site for pilgrims and although the well is somewhat neglected, there is a wonderful sense of peace here, making it a lovely place to pause and enjoy the beauties of nature and think of all those whose faith has led them to this point. Amongst the many pilgrims who visited, Henry VIII and Catherine of Aragon are said to have visited the well in the hope of conceiving a male heir.
Saint Margaret's Well came to be known as a treacle-well during the Middle Ages because of the medieval use of the word ‘treacle’ to describe a healing fluid or medicine and this is thought to have inspired Lewis Carroll:
`Once upon a time there were three little sisters,’ the Dormouse began in a great hurry; `and their names were Elsie, Lacie, and Tillie; and they lived at the bottom of a well–‘
`What did they live on?’ said Alice, who always took a great interest in questions of eating and drinking.
`They lived on treacle,’ said the Dormouse, after thinking a minute or two.
The church itself is a lovely space, cool and redolent of the past. Built on the site of a Saxon church associated with the well, there are many details to notice such as the zig-zag patterning around the arch of the door and the lead-lined font-bowl. I wandered around, enjoying the tranquillity and solitude until a couple on bikes came along when I decided to leave them to have the same experience!
St Margaret of Antioch,
Binsey Lane,
Oxford
OX2 0NG
Frideswide’s story has been retold for children in ‘The Princess who Hid in a Tree’ and you can read my review here.
